Best Pad Thai

Place noodles in a large bowl. Add enough warm, not boiling, water to cover. Set aside for 30 minutes.

While the noodles soak, in a small saucepan over low heat, whisk together 1/4 cup of the fish sauce, tamarind, water and palm sugar. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved and the sauce is just warm. Do not boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Once the noodles have soaked, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drain the noodles and add to the boiling water for 1 minute. Drain, rinse with cool water, then set aside in the colander. Heat a wok or heavy saute pan over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, swirling the pan to coat the surface.

When the oil begins to lightly smoke, add 2 tablespoons of the chili flakes and half the tofu. Fry the tofu for about 5 seconds, then add half each of the garlic, and dried shrimp. Fry until the tofu is lightly brown, about another 30 seconds.

Add half the noodles and a small ladleful of the sauce, stirring quickly to the mix so the noodles do not stick together. Cook for about 30 seconds. Push the noodles to one side of the pan. Crack 2 eggs into the pan. Let the eggs sit for about 5 seconds, then scramble for another 5 seconds. Toss the noodles to mix well.

Add half each of the chives or scallions, sprouts and peanuts, then quickly toss. Transfer to serving plates, then repeat the frying process with the remaining ingredients.

Serve with lime wedges, the remaining fish sauce and fresh chillies.